Wednesday, January 7, 2015

Parfums Grenoville

Parfums Grenoville/Parfumerie Grenoville was established by Paul Grenoville at 20 rue Royale, Paris in 1879; changed family name from ‘grenouille’, which means frog in French.










Timeline:

  • 1879 -  Parfumerie Grenoville  established
  • 1910 - Associated with Marie Marthe Richard Vive 
  • 1923 - Affiliated with Parfise
  • 1925 - Won a silver medal at the Parisian Art Deco Exhibition
  • 1932 - McKesson & Robbins sold the Lucretia Vanderbilt line to Grenoville, Inc.
  • 1939 - The company was known as Grenoville Les Grands Parfums, Inc.
  • 1943 - Grenoville acquired Les Parfums de Clamy

Modern Perfumery, 1919


















The exportation of Grenoville's perfumes to the USA were halted during WWII and didn't resume until around 1948.

A special perfume presentation known as the Envoi de France, designed by Lucienne Coudret, was made just after WWII in 1945 and was inspired by Allied victory and the liberation of Paris. The Eagle, a clear glass bottle with frosted stopper formed as an eagle with wings forming a victory "V" symbolized the United States. The Rooster, was a satin glass bottle with figural satin glass rooster stopper symbolized France.



Some of Grenoville's perfumes were housed in Baccarat crystal bottles. 
  • Nuit de Mai (Baccarat design # 137)
  • Ambré Hindou (Baccarat design # 200)
  • Casanova (Baccarat, design # 230)
  • Nikys/Byzance (Baccarat, design # 526)
  • Langlois (Baccarat design # 335)
  • XX Vincent (Baccarat design # 350)
  • Victrix
  • Rosier du Roy 
  • Chaîne d'Or  (Georges Chevalier design)
  • Iris
  • Oeillet

One of Grenoville's perfumes was housed in Rene Lalique flacons:
  • Victrix
One of Grenoville's perfumes was housed in Julien Viard bottles:
  • Rêverie 
A few of Grenoville's perfumes were housed in Czech bottles:
  • Casanova 
  • Casanova Royal Paris




Reste Jeune, 1936:
"At Grenoville, no new perfume at the end of the year; but the success of Byzance, a concentrated and persistent perfume, as well as that of Casanova, are far from exhausted. Grenoville presents its range of perfumes in a new circular case in ivory composition, mounted in gilded metal, extremely luxurious and worthy of the original research of its bottles."





The perfumes of Grenoville:

  • 1908 Œillet Fané ("Wilted Carnation") (still sold in 1947)
  • 1909 Jasmin Blanc (still sold in 1922)
  • 1910 Bluet (still sold in 1922)
  • 1910 Muguet d’Orly 
  • 1910 Muguet d’Orly Lotion
  • 1911 Nuit de Mai (still sold in 1929)
  • 1912 Ambré Hindou 
  • 1913 Rosier du Roy 
  • 1913 Victrix (still sold in 1929)
  • 1914 Cyclamen
  • 1914 Chypre (still sold in 1929)
  • 1914 Oeillet Prince Noir (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Eau de Cologne Russe (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Lilas en Fleur (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Violette de Parme (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Cologne Russe (still sold in 1921)
  • 1914 Rose Myrto (still sold in 1921)
  • 1917 Langlois
  • 1917 Le Beau Masque ("The Beautiful Mask")
  • 1917 XX Vincent 
  • 1918 Chaîne d'Or (still sold in 1947)
  • 1919 Violette Grenoville
  • 1920 Espalier du Roy
  • 1920 Iris
  • 1921 Rêverie
  • 1921 Fougère
  • 1921 Violette 
  • 1921 Heliotrope  
  • 1921 Narcisse
  • 1921 Œillet
  • 1921 Lavande
  • 1921 Violettes Russes
  • 1921 Violettes Russes Lotion
  • 1923 Ambar de Grenoville
  • 1924 Dancing
  • 1924 Charny
  • 1925 Cuir de Russie 
  • 1925 Cypria (subtitled "Le Charme de Paris", designed by Georges Guerin, (still sold in 1929)
  • 1926 Byzance (in association with Parfise; a parfum) (still sold in 1947)
  • 1926 Nikys (this is the re-branded fragrance 'Byzance)
  • 1929 Casanova (subtitled "La Volupté de l'Orient", also presented in a version by M. Bovis)(still sold in 1947)
  • 1929 Casanova Royal Paris 
  • 1930 Parfums des 4 Saisons (presentation)
  • 1931 Avant l'Été (still sold in 1947)
  • 1931 Le Rouge du Diable 
  • 1933 Bouquet de Lilas
  • 1934 Œillet
  • 1935 Dyamique
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin (a line of floral fragrances, still sold in 1946)
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Lilas
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Muguet d’Orly
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Narcisse
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Œillet
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Violette Russe
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Avant l'Été
  • 1939 Dans un Jardin Œillet Fané
  • 1939 Un Piege (a trap/lure)
  • 1940 Piege (a trap/lure) (still sold in 1955)
  • 1950 Esbroufe ("Swagger") (still sold in 1955)
  • 1950 Esbroufe Lotion ("Swagger") (still sold in 1955)
  • Eau de Cologne aux Pure Essences de Fleurs
  • Hanaho
  • Cedrat
  • Jacinthe
  • Tabac 

Piege:

Piege, is classified as a floral fragrance for women. It begins with a citrusy top, followed by a rich floral heart, resting on soft oriental base notes.
  • Top notes: bergamot, neroli, and lemon
  • Middle notes: jasmine, rose, ylang ylang, honeysuckle, and lilac
  • Base notes: ambergris, sandalwood, vetiver, and musk






Cosmetics & Toiletries:

  • Sûre d'Elle Face Powder
  • Sûre d'Elle Lipstick
  • Les pastels de Grenoville (cheek rouge)
  • Pilopenthal Pour Cheveux Secs (hair oil)
  • After Shave


Drug and Cosmetic Industry - Volume 45, 1939:

"GRENOVILLE Les Grands Parfums, Inc., presents the entire Grenoville line in new
outstanding presentations, in various containers priced from $6 to $105.
Byzance perfume, the most popular, is a subtle blend of the gardenia fragrance." 



Esbroufe:


Femme, 1950:

"Esbroufe by Grenoville, Diableries by Piver, Amour Sorcier by Germaine Lecomte, although very different, can nevertheless be brought together spiritually by an analogy of a somewhat satanic tendency, in the best sense of the term. These are women's perfumes at first glance, in perfumes of coquetry and high elegance.

Esbroufe shines and obsesses in the theater box, in a large evening dress and mink coat.

Diableries is a good devil, kindly respectful, very determined to please and captivate the imprudent heart that lets itself be taken in by his game; but nevertheless distinguished in its spicy grace.

Amour Sorcier justifies its musical and choreographic name; it shows us to what extent Germaine Lecomte associates the ideal of perfume with that of dance. The line, the movement, the flight of the dancer are accompanied by the invisible scarf of the perfume. Germaine Lecomte's lotions, eau de toilette and eau de Cologne accompany its two perfumes, Soir de Fete and Amour Sorcier. They allow the woman not to break the enchantment of her favorite perfume from the morning toilet to the triumphant elegance of the evening."



Art and fashion - Issue 2760, 1954:
"Toilet water "Esbroufe" of Grenoville is as precious as the great perfume "Esbroufe" of which it is fragrant."


The following perfumes were available in the forms below.


Ambre Hindou:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water
  • Lotion
  • Face Powder


Bluet:
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 4 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum
  • 6 oz Toilet Water
  • Face Powder
  • Soap


Chypre:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum

Cologne Russe:
  • 6 oz


Iris:
  • 2 oz Parfum


Jasmin Blanc:
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water

Nuit de Mai:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet Water
Oeillet Fane:
  • Parfum 
  • Cologne 
  • Face Powder
  • Soap

Reverie:
  • 2 oz Parfum

Rose Myrto:
  • 2 oz Parfum
  • 8 oz Parfum

Victrix:
  • 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 oz Parfum in novelty cut bottle
  • 4 oz Parfum
  • Lotion

Violet Grenoville:
  • 1 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 2 1/2 oz Parfum
  • 6 1/2 oz Parfum
  • Toilet water





































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