Friday, July 15, 2016

Xanadu by Faberge c1969

Xanadu by Faberge: launched in 1969. Xanadu was a new division of Faberge.


The Magazine of Wall Street and Business Analyst, 1968:
"Early in 1969, Faberge will introduce Xanadu, a new concept in skin creams, toiletries and cosmetics for both sexes."

Amelia Bassin, executive vice president of the Xanadu line also served as the longtime creative director at Faberge, conceived and developed the Xanadu products and their unusual packaging. President George Barrie approved of these "miracles of new device." Xanadu also launched a bold market approach, something totally new and different for its time. All products in the bath line were designed for use by both men and women with no gender distinction on the package.

Bassin told an American Management Association seminar, that she was sick and tired of the "same old bottles. Same old jar. Same gift-with-purchase promotions. Same old pretty faces in the same old pretty ads. Same old markets. Same old outlets. Same old bandwagon. Same old copycat packaging, masquerading as revolutionary under the fool-the-eye guise, or disguise, of new graphics and new materials." She wanted something different, something completely out of this world for Faberge's Xanadu line.

In 1968, while Amelia Bassin was interviewed, the reporter noticed she was wearing a few plastic rings. Bassin said that the plastic look was all the rage with models in New York, who wore fistfuls at a time on the runway. "This is indicative of our new line," she said. "The line will be called Xanadu - as in the poem by Coleridge - I think; it will be bottled in plexiglas; and it will be a cosmetic treatment series with men's items."

Xanadu was the name of Kublai Khan's legendary kingdom. "It's pronounced Zan-a-doo, and I got the name from the poem of Samuel Taylor Coleridge that begins, 'In Xanadu did Kubla Khan a stately pleasure dome decree.' I call my pleasure domes 'skin games.' And, since men have equal rights, my skin treatments and fragrances can be used by both sexes," said Bassin, playing on the women's liberation movement which gained steam that year. Bassin said that Xanadu was made from a secret ingredient called "Udanax" - which was simply Xanadu spelled backwards. 

 "Xanadu is magically formulated for men and women - no matter what their age, occupation, income, color or previous condition of lassitude," explained Bassin. "Men have skin too - so why should women get all the goodies? And that goes for fragrances too. Why should there be an eternal battle of the sexes where perfume is concerned? There should be the same ground rules for men and women with none of this 'hand-off, it's mine' business," Bassin said emphatically. "Our kingdom is on the single standard," said Bassin. "The same products, except for makeup, are for both men and women. Any dermatologist will tell you that the structure of male and female skin is the same and needs the same care. Men enjoy the same fragrances as women. Why shouldn't they wear the same?"

The poem, penned in 1816, inspired not just the name of the new cosmetics line but also the title of some of its products. The poem included the words "For he on honey-dew hath fed and drunk the milk of paradise." These ambrosial names were used for two body products for the Xanadu line: the pale green Honey-Dew Nectar Moisturizer and the liquid Milk of Paradise Cleanser.  

The Xanadu line was dominated by packages that were considered futuristic, aimed at the space age jet set. The line was launched during the same year as the first walk on the moon, and the cult classic sci-fi film, Barbarella had already been shown in theatres, so everything spacey was in vogue. Xanadu's eye-catching containers were made from geometric shapes like cubes, spheres, and half-circles, which would have appealed to Jane Fonda's stunning Queen of the Galaxy character. The packaging was meant "to express the freer life style of today," said Bassin.

"Here, for instance," said Bassin as she held up a plexiglas cube, "Look at this. I found it at the Electric Fair and it themed our packaging. Yet it was Coleridge's poem, "Kubla Khan," that inspired the name of our new line - you see..the past and present both contributed." 


When Faberge was looking for inspiration, they learned that the wealthy folk were collecting amethyst glass and twinkling crystal inkwells because of the "interesting light formations." The bath line products came in vibrant orange unbreakable lightweight flasks or tubes while the fragrance came in purple bottles. All products were presented in gleaming silver colored, embossed cardboard packages. Each item in the line carried the Xanadu trademark, a stylized X. Xanadu's futuristic packaging was created by J. Landowne Co, Inc and made by the Wallace Packaging Corporation of New York. 

Some of the other innovative packaging was designed by Schwartz-Wassyng, Inc. Included are: combination of soaps; body powder; the Boxxa Nova three drawer plexiglas unit with a makeup palette and mirror; Cologne Xpresso; Soap-Free Soap packaged in an expanded foam folding box and stored in a Lucite container; Xana-brewer, a float to suspend herbs in water; Bathosphere sponge ball that can be injected with Shampeau; and a Lucite cachepot.

"This is an age of rapid advancement. An age of astounding technological progress. Of supersonic airlines. Of men on the moon. And it's the age of Xanadu, the ultra modern scent from Faberge. It's for the women of the seventies. And their men. You must travel to the outer limits of sensory pleasure. All the way to the brave new world of Xanadu. Where you become beautiful...your way... with Faberge's new Xanadu collection. You won't be regimented into a pre-fabricated plan. You're free - to xplore an xtraordinary new world of light and color caught in pure clear geometric shapes, in gleaming metal: and choose your own thing! There you will discover a revelation in fragrance, captured in Xanadu Parfum, made, bottled and sealed in France. You will seek new sensations with Xanadu Cologne Extraordinaire in the beautiful amethyst bubble-top globe." 

"I'm a collector of antique inkwells. I wanted to do things that are refillable. For instance, you don't have to buy another compact when this one is used up. Just a little dab of paint will do you," said Bassin holding up one of the items in the line. "I started with a plexiglas cube as a holder for a jar of cream. See? Colors are suspended in space and you don't have to throw away the holder." Faberge intended the line to be environmentally conscious and opted for its products to be reused and refilled whenever possible, preventing landfills from being overloaded with unrecyclable product containers like other brands.

"In an age of stress, tension, conflict, and non-communication," said Bassin, "we are selling smiles," said Bassin, referring to the line's playful packaging. Rather than use traditional fragrance bottles, Bassin humorously packaged the Xanadu body oil into whimsical bottles shaped like oil cans one would find at a gas station. Dubbed the "cantini", they came in both crystal and mirror-like chrome covered glass. Bassin said the idea was directly "borrowed" from Tiffany & Co's showy sterling silver vermouth dispenser. The Xana-Dew Drops Perfume Xpresso was housed in chrome cantini bottles and the Xana-Dew Drops, a perfume concentrate in crystal cantini bottles. 

Another interesting piece in the Xanadu collection was the Xana-Brewer, an oversized tea ball connected to a chunk of cork which kept the brewer afloat. The Xana-Brewer held herbs for use in your bath water. Bassin said she "borrowed" the idea from Cartier's sterling silver tea steeper she purchased at Bergdorf Goodman. She felt the steeping idea would be ideal for bath. "Use them to have a ball in your bath," said Bassin.
 
"Now this is my piece de resistance," said Bassin, as she held up a plexiglas bubble filled with little capsules. "Everyone's on the pill," she joked, referring to the oral contraceptive. "I got the idea from the pharmaceutical field. This dome holds two night creams, eye shadows, three lip shades, blusher, toner, sun cream for a sunny day, night cream, lubricating and moisture creams. It's for a two-day weekend."

While the intention at first, was to sell Xanadu without free gifts like other brands did, as they felt the products would sell themselves. However, Faberge sort of went back on their word and did include a mini-satellite bottle, perfect for travel as a gift with purchase every big bottle or flask of cosmetics. Other free gifts with purchase were perfume sprays or colognes.


Vogue, 1969:
"TOUCH  OF  THE EXOTIC.  There  is  a swinging,  wanton  land  of  fantasy, 
somewhere  north  of  Reason  and  slightly  west  of  Commonsense,  where 
pleasure  exists  for  its  own  sake — without  conscience,  without  penalty. 
Coleridge  called  it  Xanadu.  It  is  an  incredibly  apt  name  for  the  enchanted 
creams  and  coddlements,  scents  and  subterfuges  on  the  page  facing. 
Faberge's  Amelia  Bassin,  who  loves  and  appreciates  beauty-making,  and 
who  inhabits  a  nearly  visible  pleasure  dome,  has  housed  her  fabulous  new 
Xanadu  cosmetics  in  flights  of  Plexiglas  and  provided  mirror-chrome  oil- 
cans to  dispense  lotions.  There  is  so  much,  it  can  not  all  be  described,  but 
it  should  be  noted  that  the  Honey-Dew  Nectar  Moisturizer  and  the  Milk  of 
Paradise  Cleanser  are  not  to  be  resisted." 


Soap, Cosmetics, Chemical Specialties - Volume 46, 1970:
"The "Xanadu" toiletries line, introduced by Faberge, Inc., last fall through exclusive marketing outlets , will be introduced nationally this fall. Items range from $2.50 bar of soap to $60 perfume in 2-oz. amethyst bottle with silver cap."



The highly innovative Xanadu line which Bassin conceived and developed, earned her the first ever award for Creativity in Product Design, given by the Hecht Co. Washington, DC department store, as part of its annual Young Designers presentation. Packaging Design magazine presented her its 1969 award for the same line. 




Fragrance Composition:



So what does it smell like? It is classified as an exotic floral oriental fragrance for women with a warm, woody amber base.
  • Top notes: Italian bergamot, green notes, aquatic notes
  • Middle notes: narcissus, jasmine, floral notes, herbal notes
  • Base notes: cedar, amber, Singapore patchouli, Tibetan musk, spices, vanilla, Mysore sandalwood, vetiver, Yugoslavian oakmoss
 

Xanadu was available in a variety of products for body and bath including:

Fragrances:

  • 1/8 oz Parfum Fabergette Purse Spray
  • 0.25 oz Parfum Splash
  • 0.5 oz Parfum Esprit Spray
  • 1/4 oz Parfum Spray
  • 1 oz Perfume Oil for body and bath   (in oil "cantini" bottle) 
  • 1/2 oz Perfume Oil for body and bath  (in oil "cantini" bottle)
  • 1/2 oz Spirits of Cologne Splash  (in oil "cantini" bottle)
  • 3 oz Spirits of Cologne (in a Globe bottle)
  • 5 oz Spirits of Cologne (in a Globe bottle)
  • 1/2 oz Cologne Extraordinaire Splash
  • 1/2 oz Cologne Extraordinaire Splash (in oil "cantini" bottle)
  • 1 oz Cologne Extraordinaire Splash
  • 3 oz Cologne Splash  
  • 1 oz Cologne Spray Extraordinaire
  • 2 oz Cologne Spray Extraordinaire (Aerosol)
  • 3.5 oz Cologne Spray Extraordinaire
  • 5 oz Colone Spray Extraordinaire (Aerosol)
  • 1/2 oz Cologne Xpresso XXX Strength (in spray globe)
  • 3 oz Cologne Xpresso XXX Strength (in a Globe bottle)
  • 5 oz Cologne Xpresso XXX Strength (in a Globe bottle)
  • 1/2 oz Xana-Dew Drops (in crystal cantini)
  • 1/2 oz Xana-Dew Drops Perfume Xtract (in mirror-chrome oil "cantini" bottle)
  • 1 oz Xana-Dew Drops Perfume Xtract (in oil "cantini" bottle)
  • 1 oz Xana-Dew Drops Perfume Xpresso (in a Globe bottle)
  • Bath Perfume 
  • 3 oz Cream of Cologne (in a Globe bottle)

Fabergette was a shiny, textured chrome purse flacon that contained one dram of Xanadu parfum. It retailed for $7.50 and the refill for $5.

Parfum was contained in elegant deep purple bottles with silver caps and suspended in clear plexiglas boxes. It was made, bottled and sealed in France and was available in three sizes: 1/2 oz, 1 oz and 2 oz, each retailing for $20, $35 and $60 respectively. 

Harper's Bazaar, 1970:
"There you will discover Xanadu Perfume, a fragrance so intense, you use it drop by precious drop. How far should a woman go for pure pleasure? All the way to Xanadu by Faberge."

Perfume Oil for Bath & Body was a "highly concentrated fragrances to scent and lubricate your skin. Used in the bath, or after bathing, to mark his favorite spot with Xanadu." It was contained in the oil cantini bottle and available in 1/2 oz crystal cantini bottle for $5 and 1 oz in the mirror-chrome cantini bottle for $9.

Parfum Esprit Spray - more concentrated than cologne, equivalent to today's modern Eau de Parfum concentrations.

Cologne Xpresso XXX Strength - a triple strength cologne was presented in a clear turquoise and mirror-like silver Globe bottle. Spirits of Cologne, also packaged in a globe bottle, was for those who wanted to spray on a lighter scent.

The Cologne Extraordinaire splash was contained in amethyst glass globe bottles, 1 oz for $3 and 3 oz for $6.50. The two-part bottle consists of glass bottom and plastic dome. Glass is coated with ceramic amethyst (violet) and screened with silver palladium. Top half of sphere is the cap, a transparent violet plastic with metalized tin. Made by Ceragraphic VCA for Faberge. The Cologne Spray Extraordinaire was available in amethyst glass cylinder bottles with silver caps, 2 oz for $5, and amethyst and silver spray globe bottles, 5 oz for $10. 

New York Magazine - May 13, 1974:
"Xanadu Cologne Spray, the super-sexy amethyst and silver cylinder, l oz. $3.75"


































Bath and Body Products:


  • 3 oz Body Oil Xpresso (in a Globe bottle)
  • 3 oz Moisturizing Bath Oil Spray
  • 5.25 oz Nitti-Gritty Pumice Lotion
  • 3.25 oz Salubria Elixir Lubricating Lotion
  • 3.75 oz (4 oz) Whipped Cream Bubbling Milk Bath (flask)
  • 8 oz Whipped Cream Bubbling Milk Bath (box with scoop)
  • 3.75 oz (4 oz) Hand & Body Moisture Lotion with Aloe
  • 8 oz Hand & Body Moisture Lotion with Aloe
  • 5 oz Luxury Bath Powder with Puff
  • 10 oz Luxury Bath Powder with puff
  • 3 oz Luxury Bath Powder Shaker
  • 4 oz Luxury Bath Powder 
  • 3 oz Luxury Bath Powder Ball 
  • 5 oz Luxury Bath Powder Spray
  • 3 oz Bath Buff Perfumed Powder (in shaker)
  • 10 oz Bath Buff Perfumed Powder (in plexiglas cachepot)
  • 3.25 oz Creme Rinse
  • 3.25 oz Shampeau Liquid Lather   
  • 5.25 oz Shampeau Liquid Lather 
  • 8 oz Shampeau (in oil "cantini" bottle)
  • Shampeau Liquid Body Soap with Bathosphere "bowling ball" sponge
  • 3.75 oz Liquid Luxury Bodysoap
  • Hooked-On-Soap (Soap on a Rope)
  • 11.5 oz Xanadu Bath Ball Body Soap (3 cakes in plexiglas soap dish)
  • 3.5 oz French Milled Marble Ball Deodorant Bodysoap in plexiglas soap dish



The Xana-Brewer, was a perforated, mirror-chrome plated aluminum ball, looks like a traditional, but oversized tea ball, that held skin softening Xana-Brew Bath Herbs in scents Xotic Jasmin or Extra Tarty Lemon. The Xana-Brewer floated in the tub because it was attached by a chain to a three inch cork cube from Portugal. The two-piece Brewer Ball, two and a half inches in diameter, was fabricated and finished by the Cosmetic Container Division of The Risdon manufacturing Cp. It is fastened to the cork by a three-inch long chain, Bassin said she "borrowed" the idea from Cartier's sterling silver tea steeper. The "brew your own bath" Xana-Brewer retailed for $5. 

Xana-Dip for "busy bodies" was a bath in a flask that you would slosh on without needed a tub or shower. The Xana-Dip cleansed, refreshed, deodorized and scented all of you in less than 6 seconds.  Two versions were available retailing at $5 and $6.50.

Hooked-On-Soap was a removable deodorant soap on a rope, the "newest, nicest way to keep your soap from getting soggy.".

The Bath Ball was contained inside of a plexiglas soap dish and was a French "double milled body soap redolent with cleansing oils and Fragrance X." It was an orange ball of soap rich in emollient oils that was divided into two hemispheres. It retailed for $7.50  A set of the French milled Marble Ball Bodysoaps, striated in shades of green, in a dome shape, were contained inside a plexiglas cubical cachepot, sliced in three bars, retailed for $5.00.

The Bathosphere was a thick 8 inch diameter sponge in the shape of a bowling ball, which broke apart in two hemispheres for sharing, complete with three finger holes in which to squirt the Shampeau into. It came in four different colors: aqua, purple, red, lemon yellow, olive green and orange. Shampeau Liquid Lather was a rich, lemony concentrate in an 8 oz clear plastic and mirror-chrome oil cantini. It was billed as a "head to toe shampoo for men as well as women! Here's a baby pure, non-irritating, concentrated golden liquid gel that works up into a lather with just a few squirts on your face cloth, Bathosphere Sponge Ball, or directly on your scalp! Leaves hair sparkling clean - leaves body clean and silky smooth." Both the Shampeau and the Creme Rinse, also lemon scented, products came six ounce sunny yellow plastic bottles topped with a silver domes.

Perfume Oil for Body and Bath - contained in a Cantini bottle was "a fragrance that does all things! Soothes, smooths, silkens. Especially great after bath for dry skin. A few drops added to bath for dry skin. A few drops added to bath luxuriously scents water ad you! To use..unscrew cap, remove sealer over opening, replace cap. Now just removed plug on top of cap and out comes Xanadu Perfume Oil, a few precious drops at a time. Replace plug when not in use."

Moisturizing Bath Oil - "a sheer spray of fragrant oils with delightfully rich emollients that smooth, soothe and superscent the body. Use Xanadu Moisturizing Bath Oil lavishly. Spray on before shower or bath for that sensuously smooth all-over sensation. Spray again after bathing for fragrant all-day elegance." 

Body Oil Xpress in the bubble-top globe..

Xanadu Bath Buff - a weightless  sheer powdered perfume, with lambswool puff in a domed cachepot, beautifully packaged in lavender and silver. Retailed for $10.

Xalubria Elixir Lubricating Lotion - "the x-tra rich translucent lotion..for men as well as women. Smooth on lightly all over body after bath. As a face lotion, apply to dry aread - after half and hour tissue off excess. A wonderful overnight skin treatment. Apply sparingly before and after xsposure to sun, sea, wind and snow to protect skin. Supples, softens, smooths in a lemon-fresh way!" Salubria is for the sporty, sensitive thin skin or the very dry type - solace for the skier, the surfer, the sun bather.

Whipped Cream Bubbling Milk Bath - "highly perfumed suds with real milk proteins to pamper your delicate skin. in an unbreakable bright orange container. This divine powder combines the softening effects of the milk bath with those of the foam bath and immediately gives your skin an impalpable velvety feel. Then apply Xanadu Hand & Body Moisture Lotion to the still slightly damp skin until the next bath." The 2.5 oz size retailed for $3, and the 6.75 oz container was available for $5.

Nitti-Gritty Pumice Lotion - "After bathing, apply to rough areas of body - heels, elbows, knees, toes. When dry, gently roll off dead skin cells with fingertips. Rinse with cool water. Moisturizes while it smooths and softens." Textured with micro - grains of natural pumice. 

Luxury Bath Powder was a "translucent and Xtra fragrant" body powder in an orange shaker. It was also available in a larger size, 10 oz in a plexiglas cachepot complete with a huge lambswool puff. The Luxury Bath Powder Spray was a "mist of sheer silkiness in orange plexiglas and mirror-chrome spray globe." 5 oz retailed for $4.

The Liquid Luxury Bodysoap was a golden liquid soap.

The Hand & Body Moisture Lotion with Aloe was a "rich, creamy, complete-care confection, the all-over balanced beauty diet for your skin." 8 oz cost $4.
 



























 

Skin Care:


The  skincare treatments for the Xanadu line were called "Skin Games" by the company. 
The Nitti-Gritty Pumice Lotion is the name of a gently abrasive cleanser for young skins. The cakes of facial soaps, boxed with one long and two small ones (to form an X) are amethyst, sand or meal-colored. The bracing Skin Tonic gave your complexion a glow.  For smoother, younger-looking skin Fabergé has created the newest, most intensive complexion cream ever, called Xana-Dew. Both the Xana-Dew X facial creams and face lotion were a blend of animal, vegetable and other organic emollients.


  • Salubria Dry Skin Cream 
  • Xana-Dew X Moisturizer Face Cream in metered amounts
  • Xana-Dew X Complexion Cream 
  • Xana-Dew XX Complexion Cream
  • Xana-Dew XXX Complexion Cream 
  • Xana-Dew X Complexion Lotion
  • Nitti-Gritti Facial Masque
  • 5.25 oz Nitti-Gritty Pumice Lotion
  • 5.25 oz Milk of Paradise Cleansing Lotion 
  • Honeydew Moisture Lotion
  • Xilaration Skin Tonic
  • Xilaration Toner
  • Non-allergenic Soap-Free Soap
  • Soap Facial & Washcloths
  • Face Buff Complexion Powder







 Cosmetics:

"A lot of things beside your skin type effect the type of cosmetics and fragrances you should choose," said Bassin. "Do you like to experiment with how you look? Are you an outdoors person? What's the climate where you live? Are you adroit of all thumbs when it comes to applying makeup? she said.

In the Xanadu collection, there is absolutely no color line. Makeup for Black and dark skin was an integral part of Xanadu's collection of what the company referred to as "Visual Aids." "Glossamers" came in tones for all skin colors, starting with Astra for pales, going up the alphabet, to Hazel, India and Java for women of color. 

The Moon Dust was a pearly face powder housed in a domed plexiglas spherical panne"
container. Cosmotints were little paint pans of color and shadow, used to color the eyes and cheeks - a gentle dusting of color, in six shades, which fit into the plexiglas Xanadu Compact and the retractable Micro-Brush. 

The Boxxa Nova was a three decker, makeup box fitted with a compact mirror.  

Plexi-Glosses, eight "silky" lipsticks "in soft, seductive colors: Plexi-Pink, Plexi-Peach, Plexi-Orange, Plexi-Berry, Plexi-Bare, Plexi-Violet, Plexi-Red, Plexi-Lips, Plexi-Beige. Wild, punchy shades. Plus all the shades of the season."
  • Plexi-Glosses
  • Moon Dust Face Powder
  • 1.5 oz Face Buff Complexion Powder 
  • 0.4 oz Translucent Pressed Powder
  • Cosmotints Eyeshadow/Blush
  • Honey-Dew Makeup
  • Honey-Dew Lipstick
 

Boxxanova s the name of one of the Xanadu storage boxes. It was a clear plexiglas cube with shelves and three drawers you can see through and held flying saucers of eyeshadow in a variety of hues, intended to be applied in a fun sort of way from a color palette much akin to a paint-box. The top of the Boxxanova had a tote-away mirrored compact into which you'd flip whichever disk you need when you fly away. The idea was to only have to buy the box once. The color palettes were sold individually so you could restock the Boxxanova with whatever you need. The Boxxanova, complete with the compact, retailed for $25. 

Honey-Dew was a moisturizer in Xanadu's lipstick, which came in plexiglas columns, with windowed sheaths. Nectar was in metered makeup. Xanaglu in eye-shadow colors, held Xana-lashes in "beginners", "intermediate," and "Xpert" thicknesses.












 

Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. Though it was no longer considered a major line in the USA, Faberge continued selling Xanadu internationally in 1977.

CLICK HERE TO FIND XANADU PERFUME & BODY CARE BY FABERGE

3 comments:

  1. I'm wearing Xanadu right now. I bought the beautiful purple ball shaped bottle with the silver X on top. The perfume smells like dishwater on me at first, then it becomes tolerable. Ah well, it's an old perfume. Love your site----Vivian

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. when I was a teenager I loved this fragrance, I used the body spray and it was beautiful. I saw a comment that said it smelt like dishwater, I'm sure over the years the fragrance has deteriorated. You posted the comment in 2019 and said you were wearing the fragrance now ,they stopped making the fragrance in the 70's.So my guess is that the perfume has deteriorated over the years. I wish they would relaunch the fragrance.
      Failing that I may try and get something similar made. Eileen

      Delete
  2. when I was a teenager I loved this fragrance, I used the body spray and it was beautiful. I saw your comment that said it smelt like dishwater, I'm sure over the years the fragrance has deteriorated. you posted the comment in 2019 and said you are wearing it now, they stopped making the fragrance in the 70's. So I guess that the perfume has gone off.
    I wish they would relaunch the fragrance.
    Failing that I may try and get something similar made. Eileen

    ReplyDelete

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